Motion TRiGGER - 2 -

   The way the Interface comes from the manufacturer is as shown on the left. Since this is a stand-alone device, I wanted mine in a tougher package so I purchased a small project box shown on the right from Radio Shack to put the Interface inside of.

   I just cut a slot out of one side of the box, drilled two holes and mounted the attachment board facing out. I also had to grove a hole out from between both top and bottom sections to get the power cord out. Now we are ready to put this to use.

   The goodie you see here is an Event Control Timer, also made by Haunt Master Products. This is at least the most important part of my haunt. It has the ability to turn your Jumping Jezebel on, leave it on for exactly 3 seconds, turn it off and then keep it from being able to be triggered again for, say, 20 seconds. If you run two wires from your solenoid, or Interface, to the side attachments on this ECT it will detect the circuit closure and send 110V power out of the power outlet on the right side of your picture and to your Jezebel.

   The playback device I use for my projects anymore is the Mimic Machine which records 8 seconds of sound. This unit has red LED eyes on on and extension wire, built in mic & built in light / motion activation and at about $16 is the best deal I have ever found. You can order these from the Halloween Club in Santa Fe Springs, Ca. over the phone at (562)-407-3284. For patching the sound out of this device you need to open up the case and solder external speaker wires to the two terminals on the speaker itself then solder to the other end a phone jack to plug into the powered speakers. This how-to doesn't show the Mimic in use, but a home-made unit that does basically the same thing.

   Here you will see a nearly complete assembly of motion detection, circuit opening and a sound chip (digital voice recorder) box to produce a sound signal that is then fed into the powered speakers so we can hear the voice of the monster. I sometimes use the powered speakers similar to the above, and sometimes I use the much louder karaoke machine to relay the sound. The solenoid, or Interface, can have just this hooked up to it or can go to an animated prop to trigger that, or both. What is not shown in the photo above is the ECT (shown below) hooked up. You will need two more wires coming from the 110v relay that will be attached to the side mounted screw attachments on the ECT.

 The FORMULA to hooking this together is this;

Plug ECT into 110v wall socket.

Plug 110v power line to event into the female 110v out of the ECT.

Plug motion detector into 110v wall socket.

Plug 110v relay into female out of the motion detector.

Attach the two wires from the out of the 110v relay to both the trigger to the digital sound chip and to the side attachments of the ECT.

Hook speaker out wires from the digital sound chip to the line in of the powered speakers. 

   It might seem like a hell of a long way to go to give your animatronic a voice and become animated, but so far this is the simplest system I have ever found to achieve everything we have just achieved here in this combination. This is the same system I use for my Coffin Coronary, Aerial Executioner, Crypt Keeper, a static werewolf, Trash Can Trauma the Exorcist and the new Lynching. Hopefully your next haunt will become even more animated than ever with the help of our Floodlight Motion Detector!

Rest In Pieces,

Death Lord

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